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- Tilt Shift with the a-Mount
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- Tilt shift manual lens minolta md mount
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- MINOLTA MANUAL TILT/SHIFT LENSES???
- Lens Look: Shooting with a Minolta Shift CA Rokkor-X 35mm f2.8 on a NEX7
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In the analogue era we mostly had shift without tilt lenses from several manufacturers like Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Leica and mostly in the mm range. Shift lenses cover a larger image circle than necessary for 35mm fullframe format.
With the Shift function you are moving your camera in this bigger image circle and by doing so the horizontal line can be moved from the center of the image to the desired position. This effect can nowadays be replicated by tilting the image in post. While many people think a shift lens will show less perspective distortion this is not the case. A shift lens or a tilted image in post will both show the same perspective distortion when taken from the same spot with the same focal length.
More Cheap Vintage Manual Lenses for Fuji X Mirrorless Cameras + Tilt Adapter
Nevertheless there is a significant benefit of using a shift lens: you will still have information in the corners which otherwise is lost when tilting in post. So to get the same framing you need a wider non-shift lens compared to the shift lens. To give an example: in case of the Canon TS-E 17mm 4.
This is the application people will most likely associate with shift lenses and it probably does not need any further explanation.
Environmental portraiture is another application I personally like to use wide shift lenses for. With these kind of shots you usually want to have the person close to the edge of the frame and you also want to avoid converging verticals.
To realise this when using a non-shift wide lens like a 17mm you will have to tilt the camera up when taking the shot to have the person at the bottom and later tilt the image down in post to correct for the converging verticals so you will end up with much less pixels and a very different framing. This is much easier with a shift lens as you will have the correct framing from the start. Tilt is a bit harder to master then shift if you want to make full use of it.
By tilting the front part of the lens you can modify the plane of sharpness. There is a very comprehensive and helpful discussion of tilt to be found here. So I will focus on additional topics and usage scenarios not covered there in detail yet. This is the classic usage scenario for tilt in landscape, architecture or table top photography.
By tilting the lens a bit you can extend the plane of things in focus. In the field this is a bit fiddly, so maybe you want to get some help from this resource to make better use of it. Tilting the lens can be used for increased bokeh, but it takes quite some work to not look gimmicky or just plain wrong.
First we need to understand that when we tilt the lens there will be a part in focus and then one half will show the backgroud bokeh and the other one the foreground bokeh. Most lenses have quite different rendering of foreground and background bokeh. Personally I think the background bokeh is often significantly smoother and nicer.
You can use these lenses to get a higher amount of bokeh compared to much faster lenses, especially at longer distances:.
But you can see in this shot that the right hand side of the bokeh is pretty nice, while the left hand side is not so nice. You can also see a line in focus running through the buildings.
To overcome this you can combine two shots one tilted left and one tilted right to have the nicer bokeh on both sides, which I did here:. They also work very well when adapted to Sony cameras. I recommend the Sigma MC adapter though, as all these lenses are internal focus designs where the correct flange focal distance can have a big impact on the achievable image quality. Older: PC-Nikkor 35mm 3.
Newer: PC-Nikkor 19mm 4. Only on the 19mm 4.
Tilt Shift with the a-Mount
The other lenses can only do tilt and shift orthogonal to each other, all but the 85 of the old ones only shift. If you want to have tilt and shift on the same axis these lenses have to be modified by a service point as some internal parts need to be replaced. So for Sony users I recommend getting one of the equivalent Canon lenses instead. This lens challenges the Canon TS-E 17mm 4.
Samyang TS 24mm 3. Samyang also introduced a 24mm 3. I can not recommend this one. Zuiko Shift 24mm 3.
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Being introduced in as far as I know the 24mm was the widest shift lens available until Canon caught up with their first 24mm 3. David used the 35mm version a lot in the days of film, but says that the image quality is really quite poor by modern standards.
PC-Super-Angulon-R 28mm 2. As far as I know these are older rehoused Zeiss Hasselblad medium format lenses. They are very expensive and there is little information to be found online. I would rather get one of the newer Canon lenses. PC Super Angulon 28mm 2.
There is also little information to be found online so there is nothing useful I can tell you about them. If you need one I am pretty sure you already know it.
If you just want to try one out my advice is to get one of the older Canon 24mm 3. This will be cheaper than renting one and gives you more time to learn how to use it, which will be useful.
For APS-C I think these adapters are very useful, for Fullframe it is a bit harder to find lenses that work well, that is why I did not cover them in this article. The Olympus OM 24mm 2. It has a surprisingly large image circle considering how tiny it is. Since I need an adaptor to use this lens anyway, there is very little reason not to use a tilt adaptor.
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Can you give examples? And some people seem also like to use it for portraits. With extreme wide angles 16mm or lower the depth of field produced at f8-f11 is more than enough for my use. Very nice combo. Also easy to shift form horizontal view to vertical view. Short-comes are coming from the Contax mm: rotating front lens, more flare than modern lenses and manual but last topic is not a problem for me.
Tilt shift manual lens minolta md mount
Not so easy to take it of the camera, the release button is rather difficult to access. Take one without shift and two side images and are perfectly aligned. If you go more to the sides you get serious vignetting. But no vignetting at all for tilt images. Was maybe one of the biggest GAS mistakes I ever took.
Tried it out but never used it really. Hope this helps as well. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences!
I agree, with the 17mm tilt is rarely necessary to increase DoF. Edward — Awesome.. Do you have some sample photos?
Sony tilt-shift adapter?
Other than the 28mm, Schneider also makes a 35mm f4 shift lens, most commonly seen in Leica R mount. Very interesting article!! I am planning to get zeiss pc-distagon 35mm for my Sony A7sii.
It is a pretty rare lens that I have no experience with. It might be a good idea to get a Novoflex adapter, they are usually as wide as possible. Hallo Bastian and thank you for this useful overview.
MINOLTA MANUAL TILT/SHIFT LENSES???
Thank you. For the TS-E lenses you need an adapter with electronics to control the aperture. To my knowledge there is none like that from Rayqual. I simply shimmed my Metabones IV T like many of my other adapters.
Lens Look: Shooting with a Minolta Shift CA Rokkor-X 35mm f2.8 on a NEX7
BTW: the IV T is made especially for shift lenses, having a wider throat and extra anti-reflection flocking. A good shimming material is steel feeler gauges, which can be cut as needed and can be found very cheaply. Why would I want to buy a more expensive adapter that I have to shim when I can get a better one for less money?
In a not too distant past, there was a period where the MC firmware upgrades caused serious AF problems now apparently resolved , but that make me cautious about having it as my only Canon EF adapter. These are manual focus lenses. Furthermore I found the integrated Arca Swiss foot of the Metabones adapters to be pretty useless, as I am using an L-bracket they will block each other with most of the clamps available. What would you recommend for a minimal outlay to try this?
He was talking about using the OM24 for tilt, not for shift.
For shift you need a considerably bigger image circle. All the wide medium format lenses that would work are very expensive.
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Canon 24mm 3. This is a drawback to the setup because the shift may not be beneficial to the photo framing. It also means a large image circle is still an important factor when selecting a lens. The OM 24mm 2.